This is a critical assessment of political governance and service delivery at the subnational level. It examines the strengths and weaknesses of a particular province in order to make some broad statements about politics and governance in Papua New Guinea. With insights gained from rural PNG, the paper is written with the authority of having worked closely with politicians and administrators in planning and budgeting, policy formulation and implementation, and service delivery. It is probably the most comprehensive study on Western Highlands, dealing with a wide range of issues, from geography to economy to politics and governance.